Shopping Trip to the Khan

Yesterday I had a very successful shopping trip to the Khan, so I thought I'd better blog about it. But then realised that I cannot publish the blog post until after Christmas otherwise everyone will read all about their presents!!!

So we had the day off work because it was Islamic New Year. I wanted to go to the Khan to buy a few things and we've just not had time this term as we've both been so busy, but also without any visitors coming over we've not really had an excuse. I wasn't sure if the Khan would be open because of the holiday, so I waited until after lunch before heading down. Scotty's foot has been hurting him for the last week or so and he had a lot of work to do, so I went solo.

I got the metro to Attaba as normal and headed out through the (tip-winning!) book market. I normally head to the right-hand side as this side has the old film posters and once also had some Tintin books. It's a crush as usual at the top of the stairs, but then I am walking along looking at the different stalls. I then notice that for only the second time they have Tintin books. This time I'm determined not to let the opportunity pass, so I pick them up and ask "bikam?" It's an arabic copy of Tintin and the Picaros and Tintin and the Shooting Star. Neither are in great condition, but that doesn't bother me. "hamzah w' hamzah" is the reply. I try "hamzah collo?" but he shakes his head and laughs "ahsra collo" "mesh" He asks "English?" and I reply "aywa" and he starts looking for other books, but I just point to the face of Tintin and say "like this?" He finds me an Asterix book, but it's hard to explain in broken arabic that for me Tintin is far superior to this little French guy. I pay and head off very satisfied with my first purchase; 10LE on two Tintin books.

I wind my way around the theatre that's still being renovated and make my way up Mohamed Ali street. I have fun looking in the shops and just observing life. Half-way up the street I go to make the left-hand turn to wards Bab Zuweyla but before crossing the road decide to pop into the apparently now open Museum of Islamic Art. the first door I try is very sparse and the guy directs me around the corner. Popping my head in the door I see that it is done up beautifully and very well ordered. The sign outside states that it is open 9am-5pm and costs 50LE for foreigners. We'll have to go when we next have visitors over.

Now up to Bab Zuweyla and I pass the small herbs and spices shop that we first stopped in with Aaron and Laura.  It was a good discovery as they sell at proper prices, not tourist prices, and have a decent range of stuff here. I've decided to get some more dried hibiscus as we recently used our last supplies up to make a sweet (but not as syrup-like as we'd hoped) cordial that now stands in our fridge and we get out when we fancy something different to water. "lahsemat? mumkin karkedey?" he replies with a mumble that I cannot make out, but I assume is asking me how much I want. Luckily Mr Ayman our arabic teacher taught us the time in our last lesson, so I know the word for a quarter! "robha kilo" He obliges and then looks at me quizzically to see if I'm after anything else "shukran, hallas" (thanks, that's it/finished) "mesh, tamanya ginea" and I hand over my 8LE

We pass by this store every time we go this way and have always enjoyed the aromas coming out, but never had a reason to go in. It's the coffee place, that roasts and grinds its own beans and we've never had a coffee maker so have only used 3-in-1. Now we have the amazing Aeropress brought back from Canada and we need ground coffee. The first packet we bought in Saveway was far too fine and clogged the filter, so we spent ages finding another coffee that wasn't as fine as the Egyptian standard (and it took them almost as long to find the price of this never-bought coffee in the shop!). I look towards the coffee place now and the guy catches my eye and gestures for me to come in. He asks if I want coffee and shows me an open clear bag with freshly ground coffee. It smells amazing. I touch it between my fingers and try to say I need it bigger. He understands and he gives me a seat. He comes back with some other and I again say I need it bigger as I know it will be too fine for our filter. He says he can make me some, but I must come back in 20 minutes. I say this is no problem and although he offers for me to stay and sit at the shop I know I have a few more things to buy near-by so I promise him to come back again in a bit.

I'm into the tent-makers market now and off to see our favourite man there. He recognises me straight away and we share pleasantries when he says he hasn't seen me for a long time and asks how my friends are. I'm here on a mission. When Jane and Graham first come to visit us they bought a pair of cushions from here, then we bought an additional pair, based on the colour description from them, for Jane's birthday so that their newly painted living room would have four matching cushions. Last year for Christmas though we found a fun pair of Santa cushion covers in the Recycling Shop of Mokattam, so for the holiday Jane changed the covers. However when packing up the Christmas decorations she wasn't able to find the old covers and so the living room has been Santa-themed for nearly a year! I get out my mobile phone and find the photo I took this summer of the two remaining patterned cushions. "Yes, I have!" our man exclaims and he immediately finds two that match perfectly! 50LE job done

I'm also in the market for some calligraphy, but our man doesn't have that great a range, so I pop next door and meet Ashraf who shows me his work. I spy a mini-version of the oud calligraphy that we have in our living room. We've been after one for some time and it's the perfect gift for a muso we know. I know which one I want, but Ashraf insists on showing me every different colour combination and lots of fish calligraphy too. I also manage to get a sufi dancer hanging with lovely colours and movement too that will do as a birthday present for a friend who I'll see over Christmas. 115LE job done

Now I scarper back to my coffee man. It's been more like 30 minutes than 20 and I hope he hasn't forgotten or given up on me. I retrace my steps and see him as I approach the store. He waves me in and has a clear plastic bag of ground coffee - it looks good. He gets me to touch it to see the gind and it looks just right, so he then bags some up for me. They have their own bags and he gives me a little over the "robha kilo" that I asked for. Then when he gives it to me I ask "bikam?" and he says "ghali". I'm confused because ghali means expensive, I'm sure. I look at the board at the back of the shop and it has prices there for half, quarter and another fraction of a kilo. It should be around 10LE I think. "we says ghali - free" he says. "free? no!" and I try to pay, but he refuses. "shukran awi ustaz" I say and shake his hand. I ask his name and it is Tarek, so I make a mental note so that I can speak to him again when we come by this way with our next visitors and will probably need more coffee!

I head off back towards Bab Zuweyla but head through the gate itself now and towards the main market. I can feel through the small plastic bag holding the coffee that it is still warm!
I browse the stalls as I walk along to Midan Hussein. One thing we're after for our NYE fancy dress outfits is some material - it needs to be brown and furry as Scotty is dressing as a monkey. When I get to the main road I walk slowly along some of the fabric shops here before crossing over. I find a little loop if I keep going left on myself and end up under the mosque in a warren of high rolls of fabric. It's good stuff, but not what I'm after.

Over the bridge and I want to buy a Cleopatra-style beaded head piece. I know some stalls will sell it, but we normally see loads being sold by the hawkers who come into Fishawi's as we drink our tea, so I decide to head there. I'm by myself, but this doesn't matter as I get a seat inside and order a cold karkady. My motivation is that I want to see if mine can compare! Mine is nearly there, but still not quite as sweet and strong. I text Scotty and he reminds me that my winter drink is sahleb, and I'm a little disappointed to have forgotten about this. Despite my willingness to buy no one comes in trying to sell a beaded head piece, so I'm back on the streets. I see in two stores close to Midan Hussein they have a metal crown - the type worn by the Pharaoh's of Egypt. It's pretty cool, but a little pricey too. I haggle away and manage to get both for 60LE one each for Emi and Alex so they can play Ancient Egyptians.

This is most of my shopping done now so I start to think about heading back. As I head towards the main road to walk to the Metro I have a brain wave about Scotty's monkey costume. There are so many naff tracksuits here that maybe if I could get a tracksuit of the right material this would do the job. Instead of walking down the main road I decide to take the shopping street of Muski. This street becomes more local once you get just 50m down it away from the Khan and it narrows as it continues (or maybe the shops are spreading more onto the street). There are lots of places along here with potential and so I keep my eye out for something that could fit the bill. I find one tracksuit in brown velour that looks just great. It's 80LE and I phone Scott for confirmation that this is a viable idea. He approves and says that if it doesn't work out we haven't lost too much money. This tracksuit is a great colour, but the logos on it are bigger than I'd like, so I keep going.

I then pass a shop that has something familiar hanging outside it; a dress-up Egyptian police uniform! We've seen and bought one of these before the other side of the road towards bab Zuweyla as we just thought it was too cute to pass up. The one we have already is in white; the summer uniform. But this store has one in balck too! I just cannot resist and ask how much he wants for it. He asks for 80LE and I laugh and say "La-a. I have like this and I pay 30" He does the line about this being better material, but I say "La, same-same" I get him down to 50LE and don't think he'll go any further, so I pay up. Very happy that we now have fancy dress for all seasons.

Further on I finally find a tracksuit that looks really good and has far smaller logos. It's a three-piece with a t-shirt in brown too. The shop-owners are very excited and ask me questions about the training I will do in it! At 110LE and I can't get them down to 100, but settle for it.

I final purchase is a bit of fun. I see an arabic rubix cube and think this will do nicely for Scotty's table present on Christmas Day - something to help us practice!

I'm laden with bags now and have to push my way through the crowds passing the naff Christmas decorations and dangerous fireworks towards the Metro. I get there just before it gets dark which was my aim and jump on. I don't get a seat on the way back, but do once I'm home and enjoy showing Scotty all my new purchases over a G&T.