Visit to The Recycling School

It has been a long time in coming, but this week we had a lovely visit the The Recycling School with our donations from the run.

The revolution started while we were doing the fundraising run (literally!) and with everything so up and down in the months after that it didn't seem right to get in touch with the school for a visit. When it seemed things were going well, this was swiftly followed by religious clashes which were really quite worrying. So all in all we didn't take our donations to The Recycling School as soon as we'd have hoped.

About two weeks ago I emailed Mr Ezzat, who is the Director of the charity that runs the school and I met when he visited our work with the film Garbage Dreams. Through him I arranged for the money we raised to be transferred to the school's account; 7,000LE in total.

Generally our donations are going towards "supporting the activities of the school as you suggested because we need the money in organizing field trips and sports days for the boys and for buying some teaching supplies as well". But once the money cleared Mr Ezzat told us that actually they need them for two very specific purposes "the school is in an urgent need to organize field trips and they started training the boys to learn singing old Egyptian songs and we have a good trainer is training them to have a singing team of the boys and we needed the money for this two purposes" It was really great to hear that the money raised would be going to something we enjoy too - singing and music.

It was great to hear back from him that the school were so grateful for the donation and our continued interest. It made me think that other schools / organisations must have got in touch with them before to give donations or show interest, but that they don't always maintain the links. It made us both feel good that we are able to keep the link going - why wouldn't we? We think that they are an amazing charity - doing something so simple, but so effective in changing the lives for these boys.

When it came to our visit we had some additional donations that had been collected at our work. We weren't sure how much there would be at first but it soon dawned on us that there would be too many bags of clothes and shoes to fit in a small minibus (the only size that can fit in the streets easily) and so we arranged to take a larger bus to the entrance of Mokattam and then be met by some boys from the Recycling School.

So there we were - sat on the autostrad - not sure what was going to happen. Our arabic was just about enough for our bus driver to convey to Leila (the school manager - featured in Garbage Dreams for her roel as a social worker) that we had arrived and couldn't see anyone. Suddenly though a truck pulls up in front and a famliar face greets us with recognition! It is Ibrahim, who visited our work to talk about his life after we had watched the film, and who I also met when I came to the school with three students in December. We smile at eachother and exchange a little arabic to say we are well and ask how he is, but then we are down to work transferring all the bags from our bus into their truck.

The truck full with bags, Ibrahim jumps in the back with them and we are welcomed into the front. Our arabic is less than the young driver believes, but we manage to put together what he is saying; that he is a happy christian (he gives us a sticker with Mary on it and insists that we keep this) and that he works here with his family. As we approach the entrance of the "area" he slows down and points to burnt out cars and piles of broken bricks. His voice and language conveys to us that this is where the religious clashes first took place. There are banners up depicting the martyrs and we are struck by how people are still affected by the revolution and that ma ny died in unprovoked attacks or in acts of self-defence.

We come into the area now and we both feel welcomed and at ease in the front cab of this truck as people cross in front of us and sit in the doorways to their buildings sorting garbage and going about their daily tasks. My heart jumps for a moment when we stop beside a building that is full of rag rubbish. I'm worried that maybe they didn't realise we have bought with us good clothes, and not rags to be recycled. It is just a donkey cart in the way that is stopping us and we move on.

At the school now and we are greeted with smiling faces that run out. They want to see us and say a few words in English, but then quickly they get "hands on" to the bags of clothes we have bought with us and a chain is set up to get these into the school building.

Ibrahim emptying the "truck load" of clothes, shoes, blankets and jackets that our work donated

In the school and we realise that our arabic is about as complete as Leila's English and so she finds one of the other teachers to help with translation. Together we all manage to bumble through and generally understand eachother.

We have bought with us a few school magazines as these have photos and articles in from when we showed the film Garbage Dreams and they visited us. The boys gather round and point at the pictures then scan the rest of the magazine.

The boys are all loving the attention we are giving them and they show us some of their books and then some of their work on the computer (how they map their garbage collecting routes across Cairo). They then start posing for the camera and love getting together with their friends for a photo and then rushing round to look at the picture on the view button - we have a good laugh with them!

Posing with the washing machine and the water heater bought for the school with money raised from the film screening in December

The boys all gather together then to have a large group photo taken with their recycling in the background and our clothes donations all around them. This leads onto a few photos by their plastic chipping machine which prepares the plastic shampoo bottles for recycling.

Having had enough of me taking their photos, Ibrahim asks to take a photo of us :)

The boys then gather together and sing one of their songs that they have been learning with their music teacher. This is a really lovely moment for us.

The whole visit has been just great and our cheeks are aching from smiling so much at the enthusiasm of the young boys. Although the language barrier has meant we cannot always ask exactly the questions we want - or convey good answers to their questions of us - we have tried hard and generally understood eachother. This is definitly a reason to try and learn more arabic!

As the bus we came on had to go back to school our plan when we are finished is to get a taxi from the main road, the autostrad, which is just outside the "area". We ask which way to go and Leila gets Ibrahim and his friend to walk us to the road. We step out and a man offers us a glistening apricot which we accept and nibble a few bites from. The boys walk with us and we convery how hot it is then exchange words for sun and heat in english and arabic. We feel really welcomed and at ease because we are with the boys. They too seem relaxed with us and although it sounds like a simple thing, this was a real highlight of the visit - not feeling like an outsider.

We get to the main road within the area and Ibrahim spots someone he knows in a truck and asks him to take us to the autostrad. We jump into the front cab and the guy gives us a lift much further than we expected. He won't take any money as we get out, but we know he has gone out of his way, so we give him 5LE as a thank you and hope we have not offended him.

The whole trip has made us feel so welcomed in such simple ways. We want to continue to do more for the school when and in what ways we can, and start thinking about possible future steps we could take in the time we are here.


Update: Just read an excellent book about a teenage boy in the Zebelleen - a very good read, well worth getting. The Glass Collector by Anne Perera review on Read the Casbah soon.

Top Tips; Live Music Venues

We can't lay claim to this tip - tis Dad trying to win the camera this time!

Makan, Cairo
The Egyptian Centre for Culture and Art has its base in a 1930s corner building and live music performances take place in a smallish room with a balcony. The acoustics are extraordinary and the atmosphere intimate. We saw a vibrant and inspiring performance of "zar" ritual music by the Mazaher ensemble and afterwards shared a refreshing karkadé (hibiscus) drink with the tamboura player, who was 87.
1 Saad Zaghloul St, +202 2792 0878, egyptmusic.org
Jpenntravel

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/may/16/best-music-venues-uk-world

Eurovision (sweepstake)

Last year we downloaded a copy of Eurovision and then started to watch it one evening and had a really great night. It was just the two of us and it was such a laugh to see all the acts and we actually got quite pissed in the end as we formed our own drinking game (a drink every time there were dodgy lyrics, funny accents, unneccessary costume changes, a violin etc).
So we vowed that we would try and organise a Eurovision party the next year...and here we are.

A few weeks ago we contact Derek at the BCA about booking a room for the party, but he suggested that we run it as a night there instead of a private party. So this weekend we went down and looked at their TV and sound set up - plan is to download Eurovision show (with BBC Graham Norton commentry) and then play this a few days after the actual contest (so that the party is at a weekend).

As well as organising the party we're organising a sweepstake at work. 20LE in we thought (couldn't ask for more as it's not as popular as football!) and then the winner will get 75% of the takings leaving 25% for the losing country. Although the tables will be turned in the case of "nil point" Ha ha!

We could only draw the 25 countries at the weekend (as we needed to wait until afte the semi's on Thursday night, but before the final on Saturday night). To keep it all above board we videoed the draw:



Somehow it seems that our persistant enthusiasm for this night of dubious talent/entertainment has rubbed off on our friends! They are actually taking part in the sweepstake, coming to the night and even joining in with the "avoiding the result" until Thursday. Brill! A few friends have asked if we're dressing up for the night and to be honest we are tempted. It could be a final oportunity to give the silver suits an outing. Having sneaked a peak at a few of the entries it looks like we're in for a corker of a night (as Ricky would say "We're getting drunk") as there seem to be some classics that live up to "so bad they're good" matra of Eurovision.

So it's Sunday now and Eurovision was shown last night. We're trying to avoid the result and so have not checked any news websites or facebook all day (and probably will avoid news tomorrow too) so that we don't find out. Hopefully it will drop from the British news in a day or so and then we can go back to checking the web.
Got up this morning though and Eurovision wasn't on the tracker! Shocker! Scotty was quite panicked I think that no one had capped it and we wouldn't be able to download it. Luckily though we've got back tonight and it is ready to download - 3 and a half hours of entertainment!

Bring on Thursday night! C'mon Blue! C'mon Azerbaijan! Erm...yes.

Bulaq exploration

We thought there was one place we must take Kevin to, and that was the "used car parts market" just north of downtown Cairo. So after getting up late and grabbing some coffee and breakfast on Saturday morning we head out to pick up a taxi.
Not totally sure how to describe where we want to go we say "mumkin Corniche weh sharia sitta w'ishreen julio" in an attempt to descirbe the junction we want. The taxi driver claims to understand, but keeps asking "corniche?" as we travel north along it. We add "corniche, bardain midan tahrir" to imply that we want to keep going on the corniche. He takes a detour towards the other side of the river and when we're almost ready to just get out and take another taxi; we arrive.

We dive straight in and get walking around the streets. Kevin tries to get his camera out casually but we warn him to put it away - last time we were down here we were told off for taking photos even though we had small cameras and were subtle. Scott manages to later grab a few pics on his phone (as it looks like he is texting but is actually taking a photo) to document the visit.

We wander the streets, walking slowly to take it all in. We get a fair number of "hello's" and "welcomes" which we smile and respond to. As we twist and turn Kevin is pointing out to us the finer points of car mechanics. To be honest he could be speaking arabic to us (!) but he gesticulation draws the attention of the mecahnics there who seem to understand and also start to explain what each greasy piece of metal does. This causes many smiles all round and feels good.

At one point we pass a guy welding a metal gate. As this is Kevin's trade he tries to tell the man "I am the same" I try to add "heyya amel same same" in half arabic / half english. This would have been a more effective way of saying "he job same same" if I'd used the pronoun for "he" rather than "she"!!! Oh well!

We manage to stumble on the motorbike area which gets Kevin excited and I see a stall to rival my favourite (the seat belt stall!). This place sells only the door arm rests that have electric window controls in them - talk about specialist!

As we weave in and out of the streets lined with oil we see some of the fabric and clothing stalls. We try and find the stall where we managed to buy a small rug last year (a doormat really, but it's very cool because it's patterned like a keyboard!) and although we find places selling rugs it seems that the new fashion is for stars rather than the ivories.

When we explored the area with Net and Jim last year it seemed to be mainly kids clothes, horrifically patterned material and naff imitations clothes for adults. This time though we manage to push past those and get to a different area. Here Kevin finds some (very reasonably priced) scarves (10-25LE each) and some casual trousers that he has been on the look out for. This area has more "normal" clothes as I woudl descirbe them but they are all a real mix. Soon we realize; it's a cross between TK Maxx and a charity shop...and it's huge (stretching all the way along two streets that have been pedestrianised). Brilliant!
I buy three shirts and we spy some decent jeans and tops and dresses that also have potential - we'll have to come back to do this all justice we think! The first shirt I got was an H&M and was from a street stall (so no opportunity to try it on) = 25LE, the second two were in a shop which had a more organised feel and changing rooms = 35LE each. Back home they all fit perfectly so we decide were very good buys and that we'll have to dedicate a good afternoon shopping's time in the future. (although later we become concerned that if we buy all our clothes from these charity shop-esque streets then it means the Buxton charity shops will lose a lot of business from us in the summer....a fave activity is doing the "charity shop run" along Spring Gardens for clothes and books and other good buys)

Feeling weary we walk up the street to grab a taxi home. Typically the moment we start looking there are none. The walk doesn't do Scott's lungs any good as we're beside a main road and he's been really affected recently by the horrible pollution and heavy air we've had around. Feeling the bronchitus come on he's started on his tablets again to try and stop it before it starts and fortunatly a few days later he's feeling better.
Before we manage to get a taxi Kevin sets his eyes on a bakery and I get excited because they are selling freshly made "rolitos". I buy a small packet and we get "nos kilo" (250g) of breadsticks to nibble on. 7.5LE all in which is a bargain.

We don't have much time at home before we head out again (!) this time to the BCA for a drink and chewing the cud with Jona. We grab dinner at La Rosa and collapse into the couch (and then bed) after another full day!

Islamic Cairo with Kevin

We started the day by jumping on the Metro and then getting off at Sadat aka Midan Tahrir. Coming out at the Liberation Square exit it was huge to see the change that had happened between our first visit mid-March and now. Gone were the tents and people, and back were the cars and traffic.
We managed to dodge the traffic as we crossed to the eastern side of the square and wandered passed the various t-shirt sellers and re-opened shops on our way towards the museum. We didn't go in to the museum itself, but within the grounds they have a new shop which is done brilliantly and a nice out-door restuarant/cafe so after a little bit of shopping (and taking of photographs of the burnt out NDP building) we treated ourselves to a break and a drink in the cafe.
Before going into the Metro again Kevin managed to get himself a t-shirt from one of the sellers. we had warned him that the price may be 50LE, but could be lower and that we had only managed to negotiate lower because we were buying three at once. We were surprised then when the vendour offered Kevin the t-shirt for 25LE straight out - no need to barter there! We deduced that actually times are getting pretty tough for street sellers and they'd rather a sale with little profit than not making any sale at all. We'd been reading a newspaper article recently where a shop-owner in the Khan said that he'd closed his shop for the time-being as no one was coming to the Khan any more, but he had opened a stall on the road in Tahrir Square. We just continue to hope that the tourists do return.
Onto Midan Attaba now and we come up into the book market as normal, but it's way busier than we've seen it before - maybe because it is a Saturday lunch-time? As we pass along the row of stalls both Scotty and I spy Tintin out of the corner of our eye. This is the stall I have bought from before and so I take a browse through the stack while Scotty and Kevin are bustled into the stall area by the crowds. There aren't all in the best of nic, so I select my top three that I want to buy; The Black Island (Tintin's only UK-based adventure and the subject of a Dom Joly prog we saw recently), in Tibet (the story that we saw twice as a stage show and was just brilliant) and Crab with the Golden Claws (the desert adventure). 'Bikam?' I ask and am surprised that the answer is 'hamsa' 50p a book is a bargain. My eyes meet Scott's and he says - do you want to buy the lot? I am restrained though. Although this is a great price I will never be able to read these stories in arabic and apart from the CwGC they aren't in great condition at all. I check through the books he hands me though - having seen how keen I am he has found half a dozen more Herge creations that are in worse condition at the back of the stall. I leave very pleased with my three new books and my shopping restraint.

Off to Arzak now for some lunch. Again its busy and we only just get a table in the secret air conditioned room. One koshary, a shwerma and a shish kebab later and we're on the street again making our way around the Midan towards Mohamed Ali street. On our way we get side-tracked as Kevin buys a leather belt and I look at some of the glasses (we've recently discovered that this part of town is the 'perscription glasses' district).

This isn't a picture of traffic, but of triple parking!

On Mohamed Ali and we eagerly show Kevin the oud workshops. He claims he just wants to look at them but soon enough the guy is tuning an oud up for him to have a play on. It takes less persuading than I thought before he's the proud owner of a 200LE oud (including travel bag)!

We enjoy our wander up to Bab Zuweyla where we go up to the top of the minaret and get a great view of the city. We think this view is one of the best you can get and stay up there just taking it all in for a good while.
 

Then we make our way along the crowded shopping streets towards Muski. No more purchases are made, but we enjoy looking at all the clothes as they hang above our heads along then narrow street. On meeting the main road we decide that we will get a taxi back home rather than explore the main touristy Khan. We've seen it before and it will be nice to be home and relax - this is a holiday after all!

BCA Garden Party for the Royal Wedding

Well there was no shortage of bunting at the BCA on Friday - every room and tree was covered in it for the Royal Wedding garden party. With the wedding at 11am UK time and coverage starting hours before we were in for an early start. The BCA was welcoming though, even at the dizzy hour of 10am (we'd got up just before 9am and had our Aeropress coffee) and the three of us (Kevin having arrived the previous evening) strode in and quicly grabbed our "welcome drink" of a bucks fizz!
We joined Steve and Anne-Marie and quickly ordered our breakfasts (a full english with real pork was just 55LE). Being there so early (!) we managed to pull two tables together in the middle of the garden and grab ourselves two sun shades too - it was warm and sunny already and things had hardly started.

Our two-table and two-shade set-up!

During the day much merriment was had, with the beers flowing, free ice-cream and yummy (10LE) cupcakes to eat (with marzipan crowns or Union Jacks on them), memorabelia to buy (we bought two "I am not a Royal Wedding Mug" mugs and a tea towel) and lots of good chat.

Kevin was popping in and out of the main BCA building to watch the coverage, but we mainly just sat and chatted away in the middle of the garden - glancing to the TV every now and then. Ours wasn't the best view, but we had come down to enjoy the party rather than be part of the wedding hype.

View from the table of the big screen

After the main event we did go home for a little rest in the afternoon - mainly because we knew we wanted to watch the evening band playing at the BCA and so didn't want to wear ourselves out! Around 6pm we returned to the BCA and had more drinks with other groups of friends that had turned up. Then Glass Onion were playing and we spent most of the time in the main room tapping along and having a few drinks. By their third set though we were all up and dancing! They are such a great band - really tight and they have the sound of the Beatles really down.

All in all a fun day and a great night!

Although we joked when the Archbishop of Cantebury said "in a way, every wedding is a 'royal' wedding" the day and the event did remind us of our own wedding. Both of us say that it was the best day we've ever had, so we loved being reminded of it and being loved up together.

Can there be a postcard that manages to sum up Cairo?

Well if there is, it will be one of these:

We stumbled upon this series of postcards a few weeks ago and managed to buy the full set uncut and ready to frame (hence photo isn't great as it was taken through glass). These cartoons by egyptloverscairo really show Egypt. When we took it in to be framed it was amazing because the framing guys were just pouring over it! He even called a mate over to look too and while we were trying to pick out the frame we wanted they were pointing at the different cartoons and chatting excitedly. I asked them which they liked the most, or they thought was most accurate and they said the candyfloss seller (top row, thrid from right). But they are all brilliant.